Doni Nahmias Returns to Paris Runway After Marty Supreme Triumph

Doni Nahmias is on a roll. Fresh off partnering with Timothée Chalamet and his stylist Taylor McNeill on the sold-out Marty Supreme clothing line, the founder of the Californian menswear label is returning to the Paris runway after a three-year hiatus. The designer, who has been presenting in a Paris showroom since his last show for Fall/Winter 2023, will host an off-calender runway this Thursday at the Palais de Tokyo. I caught up with Nahmias over Zoom, while he was still in Los Angeles finalizing pieces for the show. Vogue: Hi Doni. What has been the impact of the Marty Supreme collaboration for your brand? It’s given us a strong momentum going into 2026. We have a lot of exciting things coming this year, and it’s been an incredible opportunity. The value of the collaboration was never in dollars — it was in the marketing, the creativity and everything surrounding the project. Even without physical cash, what we gained in virality and cultural impact was far more valuable. The project became something truly special. I think we helped create a new landscape for collaboration between film and fashion — raising the bar for how these worlds come together and how far those collaborations can go. In many ways, we’ve set a new standard. We had big visions for it, but we could never have fully predicted how it would play out. Watching it snowball into the jacket of the year was surreal. Some things you have to let fate handle — and in this case, the stars definitely aligned. Vogue: And you had collaborated with Timothée Chalamet and Taylor McNeill for A Complete Unknown, before Marty Supreme. It was a very collaborative effort. Timothée wanted a specific hoodie to wear for the [A Complete Unknown] press tour. We designed it together, and then fans obsessed over it so we ended up putting it out. The Marty Supreme collection was more of a wider range including outerwear, track pants, polos, soccer jerseys, hats, key chains, and each pop-up had its own exclusive colorway. For London, there was a white one, while the USA had red. Vogue: Why did you decide to return to the Paris runway? We’ve been planning the Paris show for a year now. We did a show in Los Angeles in June 2024. But this is our first time back doing a show in Paris in three years, and it just felt like the right time. The brand has had so much growth and has really found its true DNA and identity. I wanted to be able to display that at the highest level, so I figured it was time to go back to Paris on an international scale and be able to express what the brand has become. Vogue: Why a three-year hiatus? Doing a show is so expensive, especially in Paris. Even if you get creative with how you spend, a show can cost a whole season’s worth of income, so you have to make sure it’s worthwhile. I really wanted to take a step back and get a really strong foundation for the brand before we kept spending so much money on the show. Vogue: Earlier, you hinted at some exciting developments this year. What are they? We have a takeover at Maxfield’s Prouvé house in Los Angeles right when we come back from Paris in February. Then, we have our Puma sneaker launch in February. It’s our first collaboration with Puma and there are two drops this year, one in February and one in April. We also have an official collaboration with Formula One, where there’ll be multiple pop-ups. We’re planning for the Miami Grand Prix in May. [The products] will be online, and there will be different drops catered to different races such as Monaco and Vegas. Being a smaller brand, the fact that we have the official collaboration with them is something new that we’re bringing to this space. Vogue: What’s the size of your business? We are hopefully on course to do close to $10 million [in sales] this year. From the year we launched in 2018 until now, it’s been a steady 20% to 30% increase year-on-year, with healthy organic growth. We’re lucky that in the toughest years for the economy, we still saw growth. Being a brand on the smaller side, we might benefit in the sense that the hits you take on the wholesale side aren’t as excruciating. While some brands might lose millions in a season if the market is tough, we’re losing tens of thousands since we don’t have the same [product] volume — and then we can make up for that through in-person pop-ups, or figuring out how to navigate larger online sales. Vogue: After a chaotic month, Saks Global filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on January 14. How does that impact Nahmias? We are trying to navigate this right now. There’s a lot of uncertainty. We have their whole spring buy in the warehouse right now, but until we get some answers, our factoring group isn’t approving the order guarantee. Vogue: What’s your focus in terms of distribution? We are exploring what retail would look like if we opened a flagship, and we’re starting to actually look at spaces in LA. That’s the next big step for us. Having our own space would be a hefty investment, but we’re trying to figure out what is going to take us to that next level and how do we go from being a $10 million brand to a $50 million brand to a $200 million brand. Two of the key things are going to be bricks-and-mortar and direct-to-consumer. Vogue: What’s your geographical split at the moment? We’re about 65% US. Our major cities for business are LA, New York and Miami, and then we also do really well in London. We’re trying to target how to get some growth in Asia. We are in a few specialty boutiques in Japan and South Korea; some really special stores, but not necessarily a volume business. Our main focus right now is how do we get [global] sales on our e-commerce website up 50% this year. They were up 50% from 2024 to 2025, which is amazing, but I want to do that again this year. Vogue: How do you plan to achieve that? In general, by being active on social media. That’s where everyone spends their time. If they’re not working or at the gym, they’re scrolling. So how do you create an emotion for people while they’re scrolling? I don’t think it’s through photos anymore. I think it’s storytelling. Instead of shooting a campaign, we spent money developing our own Nahmias cartoons, all hand-drawn. We put out multiple 35-second episodes on socials leading up to the show. It was fun creating characters because I grew up with these ’90s cartoons. Vogue: What can you share about your FW26 collection? The collection is titled Wipeout, inspired by the moment of riding a wave or skating and falling — the emotion that comes with losing control and finding this rush and discomfort in it. It’s our most mature and elevated collection yet, but it retains a sense of playfulness that feels well balanced. At its core, it’s still rooted in our California DNA. The range is expansive: jacquards, knits, printed suedes developed through a variety of techniques, and denim. We’re also introducing tailoring and elements of suiting. Footwear for the first time evolves beyond sneakers and the Pumas, with the introduction of loafers, alongside new accessories and high-end jewelry pieces. There’s also a sense of nostalgia and playfulness through a nod to classic ’90s-style cartoons, with some of our original characters woven into the collection. Vogue: What’s your pricing like? We are further expanding our price range [with this collection], so we’ll have high-ticket items that are really specialty, whether it’s leather goods or nicer yarns using knits. But then we want to offer some range in the collection that’s more of an accessible price point, which allows maybe a younger or not as financially stable customer that wants to buy into the brand. [The website currently features a leather bomber at €2,474 and a T-shirt at €102.] Vogue: What are your bestsellers? People love our bottoms — our denim, our cargos — and our hats. The Miracle Academy hat [worn by Justin Bieber on James Corden’s Carpool Karaoke in 2020] is still a core piece for the brand. Then, around 30% of our direct business is through customs. We do a lot of custom pieces and tunnel looks for basketball and football players. Since we have our atelier [in Downtown LA], we have the capabilities. Vogue: Are you considering new categories? I want to get into womenswear sooner than later, in a season or two. Vogue: When we last spoke, you noted that your grandmother wears Nahmias. Is that still the case? Of course. And she got her Marty Supreme jacket.